What is a tie rod end and what is its function?

A tie rod end is a ball joint that is located on the left and right of the two outer ends of the tie rod. In addition, a tie rod end has the function of transmitting the force from the tie rod to the steering arm during steering. Another task of the tie rod end is to absorb the unevenness from the road and ensure a level surface.

What are the symptoms of a defective tie rod end?

The typical symptoms are that you can no longer steer precisely. There is a lot of play in steering movements. Your front wheels rumble and you hear rattling noises when going through a turn. Sometimes you also have a cracking sound when you turn in, which sounds like a metallic noise. Or if you’re driving on uneven roads with or without stone pavement, you think there’s been a bump. If you have one or more of these signs, your tie rod end is probably defective.

Track rod end knocked out, what can happen?

This process is gradual and may not always be noticed by the driver. It can be said that when the tie rod end is knocked out, things can get really serious. If you continue driving, the front wheels can become transverse, all steerability of the car is lost. If you drive slower, you can still prevent bad consequences with an emergency braking.

However, if you continue driving with the defect on the highway or on a country road, serious accidents can occur, usually with fatal consequences, because you no longer have control over your car.

Can you repair a tie rod end yourself or should you take it to a workshop?

In your own interest, you should not repair it yourself, because you cannot judge whether it is really the tie rod end. Besides, you need special tools and a lifting platform to lift the car, which only a specialized workshop has. Other defects can also be connected with it, so it is best to leave it to a specialist to check the tie rod end. Changing the tie rod end is done by a specialist with the help of a forcing tool and a puller, which dismantles the old part. After changing the tie rod end, the track of your vehicle is adjusted and the axle is measured, then you can again safely and without hesitation move in traffic.

What does the repair or replacement cost?

If it is only about tie rod ends, the expert can quickly determine the reason. Assuming you only want to have a tie rod end checked, if you are already there, you should better have it done at times. Thus you can avoid perhaps a timely repair. You should also have the tie rod ends checked by a workshop if the car has bounced hard against a curb and you feel something strange in the steering. Under no circumstances should you delay such unusual behavior, as worn tie rod ends can also cause further damage. First of all, you can check whether it is absolutely necessary to replace both ends. As a rule, the replacement of tie rod ends takes about an hour. It can also happen that more time is needed if bolts, nuts or the tie rod end are heavily rusted and cannot be loosened. The cost of a tie rod end replacement is approximately between 130,- to 200,- dollar per side. The exact costs for a change or a repair depend on the manufacturer, working hour and the workshop. Axle measurement and wheel alignment are also included. Costs for wheel alignment with adjustment are about 90,- to 200,- dollar.

General tips

An important reason for premature wear of the parts is the inferior quality The components are exposed to too much intensive stress during operation. Therefore, it is advisable not to save money at the wrong end, because quality just has its price and in the end you will benefit from it, as your components will last for a long time.

Experts say that the lifetime of the tie rod end is 40,000 km, but poor quality of the road, aggressive driving habit and non-observance of the controls can reduce this figure mightily. Consequently, the longevity of a tie rod end depends on its use and maintenance. This means that if the vehicle is driven very often over cobblestones or other roads that are not so well maintained, then the ball joint will break down more quickly.

Another disadvantage, when the ball joints rust, the rubber inserts are deteriorated because the dust protection, which is supposed to protect against moisture and dirt, is no longer there. The lubrication washes out and the joints wear out.

The deformation of the tie rod end occurs when the threads are not properly installed and operated, when arbitrary attempts are made to adjust. Therefore, please do not do it yourself, but visit a workshop and get advice from a professional.

Function of an ignition coil

The ignition coil is an extremely important component of the ignition system of vehicles with internal combustion engines. Its task is to generate the high voltage required to produce the ignition spark for the combustion engine. In general, the ignition coil design is identical for each vehicle. Inside are the coil with the primary winding, which is made of thicker copper wire, and the coil with the secondary winding, which is made of thinner copper wire and is significantly longer. Both coils wrap a laminated iron core. The wire of the coils is insulated so that the voltage cannot jump from the secondary winding to the primary winding, thus preventing short circuits. In the ignition coil, a high voltage of about 15,000 to about 30,000 volts is generated from the existing 12-volt voltage. This is further distributed to the spark plugs via the ignition leads and the mixture of fuel and air in the cylinders can be ignited.

Causes of a broken ignition coil

Like other components of a vehicle, the ignition coil is subject to wear. Internal short circuits or mechanical damage due to engine vibration, rusted plug connections due to wetness or faulty voltage supply can occur. There are various signs that indicate that an ignition coil is defective: the car will not start, the car accelerates significantly worse or the engine produces misfires. Increased fuel consumption, a rough engine run or loss of power are also clear symptoms of a defective ignition coil. In some vehicles, the check engine light comes on, an error code is displayed or the engine control system switches to emergency mode.

Ignition coil on car gasoline engine with two camshafts

Defective ignition coil – the effects

If the ignition coil is defective, this can have effects such as occasional misfires or reduced acceleration. If the aforementioned symptoms occur and the ignition coil is defective, you can still continue driving, but the ignition coil should be replaced relatively quickly. The defect in one ignition coil can affect the other cylinders, in some cases the engine can no longer be started. Changing a defective ignition coil is important to ensure reliable ignition and smooth and efficient engine running. Continuing to drive with a defective coil can cause consequential damage.

How to check the ignition coil

A distributor-less ignition system allows for easy diagnosis, while an ignition system with a distributor needs to be tested in detail. As mentioned earlier, many on-board diagnostic systems output a fault code that makes it easier to find a defect. In most cases, a defect cannot be determined one hundred percent by the usual means. A resistance measurement rarely leads to a clear result. in addition, special tools are required because the components are difficult to access. A specialist can check the function of the ignition coil with special tools and equipment, and this can be done with the engine removed or installed. Since a hobby mechanic usually does not have these modern measuring instruments, it is recommended that the voltage supply be measured by a specialist workshop.

• Inspection points when testing the coil
• Check for mechanical damage
• Are there hairline cracks on the housing
• is there damage or oxidation on ignition leads and plug connections?
• Is the voltage supply correct?
• Read out the fault memory with a diagnostic device
• Check engine control and ignition monitoring
• Checking the high-voltage curve

Without correct measurement none of the ignition coils should be exchanged, leave this to a specialist in the workshop of your choice.

The costs of a broken ignition coil

Depending on the type of vehicle, you must expect costs of 60 to 180 euros per sink. In addition, there is the amount of work. The costs depend on the quality, type and delivery of the components. There are ignition coils that are suitable for several cylinders, others can only supply one cylinder with electricity. It is not always necessary to replace both at the same time, they can be ordered separately. It is advantageous to have the component replaced in a workshop. There, the specialists know the exact type of coils and give warranty on the new part. In addition, working on the ignition system is not without danger, there is a high voltage, not necessarily easy for a layman.

Most car owners have not exactly been happy about garage bills so far, and in many cases they are even nasty surprises. New vehicles are full of high-tech and therefore garage tinkerers no longer have many options here. A visit to the workshop is therefore often unavoidable and original parts are usually required. After all, whether it’s a rust bucket or a new car, all cars have to go to the workshop at least every three years, for example for repairs or maintenance.

Particularly when new cars are purchased, these would also have to go to authorized workshops in the event of defects, because here there is the statutory liability for material defects or the manufacturer’s warranty. Rectifications are only possible at workshops of the same vehicle brand or only at the seller. Of course, otherwise independent workshops are generally cheaper, because cheaper spare parts are used by the independent parts trade.

Saving costs during a workshop visit

If, for example, the engine oil is procured independently, then almost half of the workshop price can be saved. The only important thing is that the goods also meet the manufacturer’s specifications. If you only need sheet metal parts, for example, you can also visit a scrap yard or a car recycling center, because they don’t just sell scrap metal. There are many parts at prices that most garages only dream of. Of course, if you’re looking for rare vintage parts or curiosities, you’ll also find special sites for them on the Internet.

Important wear parts such as windshield wipers, brake pads or brake discs, however, are better bought new. Safety-relevant parts such as brakes or steering are just as important. Of course, no one should endanger themselves just to save a few euros. Up to 80 percent of the workshop price can otherwise be saved if parts are repaired and not replaced. There are some specialized companies that can repair the components. These include, for example, starters or alternators. Parts that have already been repaired and remanufactured by well-known manufacturers are often offered as replacement parts. Compared to new parts, savings of between 30 and 40 percent are often possible.

However, it is better to steer clear of very cheap parts, because if you buy too cheaply, you often buy twice. If parts are advertised as original parts and they are then up to 70 percent cheaper, it is often nothing sensible. If you buy from a well-known and established parts dealer, you will usually get good advice and there will be no nasty surprises.

What should be considered when visiting the workshop?

Of course, anyone can buy various parts cheaper themselves. It should be noted that many workshops can not be forced that then parts are also installed. If the workshop installs parts that you have bought yourself, it is of course not liable for the functionality or quality of the parts. In the end, the workshop is only liable for the correct workmanship.

With fully functional parts, however, cars can often be put back on the road inexpensively, reliably and quickly. When visiting the workshop, it is best for an employee to first inspect the vehicle using the lifting platform.

Everything that needs to be repaired should also be discussed in advance and a cost estimate should be obtained. If an invoice is issued at the end, it can also be checked by experts. Workshop invoices can often be checked with different companies and usually there are master car mechanics working here. The professionals can ensure that even up to a third is saved on workshop costs.

What is a lambda sensor and what is it responsible for in my car?

A lambda sensor compares the residual oxygen content in the exhaust gas with the oxygen content of the current atmospheric air. Hereby the combustion air ratio can be determined and thus adjusted. It is mainly responsible for catalytic exhaust gas purification and should help to use the fuel as effectively as possible. In this way, the emission of pollutants to the environment is to be reduced to a minimum. Lambda sensors are mainly found in OTTO engines, but also in wood chip heating systems and in diesel engines.

Symptoms of a defective lambda sensor

A defective lambda sensor can be recognized by the fact that fuel consumption is often much higher than normal, i.e. that your car requires noticeably more fuel than usual over the same distance. In addition, the defect can be recognized by the lower performance of your car. Consequently, due to the incorrect measurements of the exhaust values, the pollution of the environment is much higher. Normally, your car’s system should detect and save the defective lambda sensor. However, you should still check your lambda sensor and if these signs can be seen, you should definitely change your lambda sensor or have it changed.

What happens if the lambda sensor is defective?

If the lambda sensor on your car is also defective, you should have it changed under all circumstances and take your car to the workshop. Driving too long with your defective lambda sensor not only means higher fuel costs for you and that you will reach your destination later, but also that you pollute and endanger the environment through high exhaust emissions. In the long run, the high fuel consumption in contrast to a replacement of the sensor will not pay off anyway, but will even exceed the cost of repairing your car.

If the lambda sensor is broken – repair at home or in the workshop?

If you have now found out that your own lambda sensor is defective, the question arises whether you could not possibly save some costs by replacing the sensor at home and do without waiting until the car is ready in the workshop.

Skilled car tinkerers can actually remove the part themselves and replace it with a new probe. No special tools are required to do this. Since the probe is not quite easy to reach, a lift could be very helpful and labor-saving. To remove the lambda sensor, simply disconnect the two connectors. Then unscrew the probe from the exhaust manifold. A ring wrench can be used for this purpose.

Removal is relatively straightforward with the aid of a lifting platform. A new lambda sensor must then be installed in the reverse order. However, it is essential to ensure that the seal is perfect. Otherwise, the functionality of the new sensor cannot be guaranteed. If one is lucky, however, only the replacement of a few defective connection cables is necessary to get the lambda sensor working again.

Costs of the repair and the lambda sensor alone

The material to install a lambda sensor costs between 250 dollars and 450 dollars. So if you install the sensor on your own, these are the only costs you have to include. However, if you want to have the defective sensor replaced in a workshop, you have to reckon with up to 500 dollars – 500 dollars more as the mechanic’s workload. In any case, you should base your calculations on your own experience in car repairs. If you are not too familiar with the subject, the specialist in the workshop is probably the better address. But if you are sure about what you are doing, there is nothing to stop you from replacing it yourself.

Conclusion

In general, it can be said that installing a lambda sensor is easy with the help of the right tools, such as a lifting platform. However, if you are not too experienced with car mechanics, you should not think about going to the workshop, where changing a lambda sensor is absolutely routine and the right tools are available.

Continuing to drive with a defective lambda sensor is not recommended under any circumstances, as this increases exhaust emissions and thus the pollution of the environment. In addition, the repair is worthwhile, because what must be calculated here in costs, would have been gone sooner or later by a too high fuel consumption by a defective lambda sensor anyway and there the investment is worthwhile for a better environment, a faster car and for a lower fuel consumption but directly.

For a long time, extreme clouds of exhaust fumes and heavy exhaust smoke were associated with the wonders of automotive progress. But nowadays, thanks to catalytic converters and particulate filters, you should ideally not be able to notice any exhaust fumes at all from your car’s exhaust.

Thick clouds of smoke have become a rare phenomenon, but black, white or blue smoke from the exhaust does not always mean that your car’s engine is defective. However, defects can very well be the reason for the smoke and, in extreme cases, colored exhaust fumes even indicate that your car’s technology has already suffered damage. In this guide we will show you what the color of the exhaust smoke tells you about the condition of the engine and what you should do if your exhaust is smoking.

White smoke from the exhaust / White smoke from the exhaust when accelerating

White smoke rises from the exhaust especially often in winter. This smoke is usually caused by water vapor in the exhaust gases when the engine of your car is still cold. White smoke from the exhaust when starting the car is therefore normal. Your car smokes white and smells like gasoline? Then be careful, because these signs often indicate a broken cylinder-head gasket. In this case, you should immediately visit a garage or otherwise repair the damage, because a defective cylinder head gasket can quickly result in engine damage.

Black smoke from the exhaust

Many drivers associate black smoke with an impending engine failure. But your car doesn’t always have to be on the brink here. Black smoke from the exhaust can also be caused by soot particles that settle in the exhaust when the engine is idling or driving slowly. If the engine is then run at higher speeds, these small particles are simply blown out, creating a cloud of black smoke. Black smoke from the exhaust often occurs in passenger cars with diesel engines.

Insofar as a compression ignition engine emits enormous soot and strong black smoke clouds form, an unclean combustion of the engine can also be a possible cause, for example if it does not receive enough oxygen. You should check whether the air filter is dirty and replace it if necessary.

Blue smoke from the exhaust

Blue smoke is the result of engine oil or unburned fuel that is in the exhaust gases. There are many possible causes here. When cold-starting your car, a high fuel content in the exhaust can be responsible for the blue smoke. However, this is completely harmless. But also a leaking oil circuit, a bad spray atomization caused by material wear or other factors can be the cause of blue smoke. If your car still has a lot of smoke even after long journeys, you should definitely visit a workshop to rule out serious problems and defects.

The dream of your own hobby car workshop

Fortunately, hobbies are also needed. They offer a balance to the stressful working day and help to find peace. Those who prefer to spend their free time productively and not, for example, with computer or board games, should think about a hobby workshop. It takes up a lot of space and can therefore usually only be set up by homeowners. But it’s a lot of fun to work there and you can also solve various problems with your car, often saving a lot of money in the process. But what exactly do you have to consider when setting up a hobby workshop? And what tools should you buy?

Finding a suitable room

Where exactly the workshop will be located plays a rather subordinate role. After all, it hardly makes a difference whether you set up the workshop directly at the house in your own garage or rent an additional garage or hall for it. More important, however, is the size of the room. In any case, it must fit the requirements. For example, you won’t be able to accommodate a lifting platform in a garage. Another must-have is a window or at least ventilation. When paints are applied, vapors are generated that are hazardous to health. Therefore, the room should be ventilated afterwards so that their concentration does not become too high. Connections for electricity and water should also be available. This way, you don’t have to use extension cords. It also means you don’t have to go to the kitchen or bathroom when you need water. A power outlet may also be necessary, as some appliances need a lot of power.

What are the basic equipment items of a hobby automotive workshop?

In general, there are endless equipment and tools that you can put in your hobby workshop. Let’s take a look at some of the most important items to be able to extensively tinker with your own car or classic car.

Lifting platform

The lifting platform is probably one of the most useful items in a hobby workshop. Prices for car lifts from manufacturers such as Twin Busch start at around 2,200 dollars. Mobile car lifts are even available for about 700 dollars. A large selection of car lifts can be found on platforms such as eBay.

Transmission lifts for cars and trucks

The transmission transmits the movement of the engine so that it can be passed on to the tires. However, with all the gears and the massive construction, it usually weighs more than 150 kg even in a car. If you want to remove it, you should therefore use a transmission jack. Otherwise, injuries could be the result. By the way, it is not a good idea to save on the purchase. After all, this can not only damage the expensive components, but also endanger your own safety. However, buying the most expensive models is not always the solution. After all, there are some manufacturers whose devices are bad even then. On the other hand, you can’t go far wrong with the manufacturers Timbertech, Holzinger or DEMA. The products of these companies have an excellent reputation and quite a few positive reviews. But how much exactly do you have to spend on such items? At least it should not be less than 100 euros, because this is where good entry-level models start. High-quality devices then cost about 500 dollars. At this sum, it is worth taking a look at a gearbox lifter guidebook. In addition, you can also buy the devices used, but this is not recommended. Possibly they are so no longer safe, because their maximum load capacity has been exceeded or they are heavily worn.

Lighting or floodlighting

Since many mechanics often work on their cars or motorcycles at night, good lighting is extremely important. Especially in halls or garages without windows this applies even around the clock and at any time of the year. Here it is recommended to tinker with simple neon tubes from the hardware store a self-solution, so that one is already well positioned here for about 120 dollars. A good tutorial on this can be found at youtube.

What tools do I need?

Setting up a workshop is usually the next step. Before that, craftsmen usually already have some tools collected together. So they already have the basic equipment and only need to invest in suitable workbenches and storage facilities. Many also buy various electrical appliances such as a grinder or a polishing machine. Such purchases are only absolutely necessary if the equipment is used frequently. Otherwise, it may be cheaper to borrow it.

Here is a small checklist of important tools:

• Cutter knife
• Screwdriver set
• Meter stick
• Multimeter
• Ratchet
• Allen wrench
• Open-end wrench
• Combination pliers
• String cutter
• Torque wrench
• Rubber mallet
• Locksmith’s hammer

If you buy these and other tools, you should of course pay special attention to quality.

If you need cheap or free spare parts for your project, you can usually find them at a car recycling center near you.

No car is built to last forever. But if you pay attention to a few basic things, you can extend the life of your car.

Extending the life of a car

Whoever buys a new car usually wants to drive it as long as possible. After all, the expensive purchase should also be worthwhile. In Australia, vehicles are driven for an average of 10 to 11 years before they end up at the scrap dealer like WA Auto Parts. If high-quality, modern materials were used in the construction of the vehicles, the wear and tear is also correspondingly lower. This means that the expected service life can be as long as 15 years. But if you follow the advice below, you can enjoy your car for much longer.

Regular oil changes keep the engine young

The engine is the heart of your car, so you should make sure it is always well lubricated. Therefore, it is especially important to check the oil level often and change the oil regularly. Depending on the vehicle and model, the oil should be changed after 30,000 to 50,000 kilometers driven.

TIP: When it comes to oil, be sure to look for quality. Oil from so-called “no name brands” often do not meet the requirements for providing the engine with optimum lubricants. Only if the engine is well lubricated can the wear of the components be effectively reduced.

Keeping maintenance appointments

There are maintenance intervals for every car that should be adhered to as far as possible. Only a specialist workshop has the technical capabilities and the experience to detect hidden damage in good time. Of course, maintenance is associated with costs, but it is still worth the expense if it can extend the life of the car. In addition, a repair is usually much more expensive.

Do not wait with repairs

If a repair is still necessary, you should not wait too long. Otherwise, there is a risk of consequential damage that may completely destroy the engine. In addition, a delayed repair can quickly become life-threatening for the driver and other road users. A worn brake, for example, can have devastating consequences.
To find out how you can still save money on a visit to the workshop, read our special article here.

Short trips damage the car

You should not necessarily drive short distances. The bakery around the corner is also easy to reach on foot. The problem that arises with short trips is the operating temperature of the engine. If the engine temperature is too low, the oil will not get hot enough to supply the engine with lubricants. A normal gasoline engine takes about ten minutes to reach the required operating temperature. Diesel units usually take even longer to warm up.

TIP: Until the engine has reached its operating temperature, you should accelerate as sensitively as possible and pay attention to low engine speeds. So-called cavalier starts are detrimental to any engine and only unnecessarily reduce the service life of the vehicle.

Pay attention to engine speed

In general, it is important to pay attention to the engine speed when driving. Too high an engine speed increases engine wear and causes engine damage. However, under-revving can also damage the engine because it puts too much stress on the crankshaft.

NOTE: According to the ADAC, the optimum torque for a normal car is around 1500 to 3000 rpm.

Conclusion

If you take good care of your car and follow the advice, you can extend the life of your car. Some cars reach an age of 15 to 18 years and some vehicles even have what it takes to become a sought-after classic car.

Time for an inspection? Make an appointment now:

More exciting articles to help you extend the life of your car:

• Overview of the different types of car engines
• How do I recognize a broken clutch and what do I have to do?
• Defect in the turbocharger
• How can I recognize a broken alternator (LiMa) and what does the repair cost?
• Is my shock absorber broken? What does the repair cost?
• Symptoms and costs of a broken cycling head gasket.
• When do I have to change the timing belt and what does it cost?
• What is an EGR valve and how can you tell if it’s broken?
• If your car does eventually give up the ghost for good, it’s best to take it to a car recycling center near you (see our overview of car recycling centers throughout Australia).

Ambient air is needed for combustion to take place in diesel and gasoline engines. To prevent dirt from getting into the oil and combustion chambers, however, it must be filtered. For this reason, the air filter is located in front of the intake tract.

In a motor vehicle, the air filter is always an important element and if the air filter is very dirty, the function of the engine can be very impaired. The air filter is also often referred to as the engine’s lungs, and it supplies the engine with air. Air is drawn in from the outside via the intake tract and dirt particles are retained by the filter. The filtered air is then burned in the cylinder with atomized gasoline.

Changing the air filter

If an air filter is dirty, then this can have a negative effect on the performance of the engine. As a result of the dirt, the engine eventually receives the lower air supply and fuel consumption increases. If an air filter is very damaged or dirty, then in the worst case it can even lead to the failure of the engine. The degree of contamination should therefore be checked regularly and only then can high consequential costs be prevented. Problems with the air filter are thus generally recognized by the increased consumption and the drop in performance.

How often should the air filter be changed and what is the procedure?

Of course, an air filter has a limited service life and must be replaced after a certain period of time. For individual models, the maintenance interval here can vary significantly. This depends on the distance driven, the conditions, the weather, the season and the filter material. To give an orientation value, air filters are usually renewed every 30,000 to 40,000 kilometers.

During inspections, the condition of the filter is usually checked. Many of the air filters are relatively inexpensive disposable products and usually in the free trade a replacement filter costs only 10 to 20 euros. If you want to change the air filter, you don’t have to go to the workshop. The removal and installation can often be done by the owner and hardly any automotive expertise is required. Of course, the independent change also saves money.

With many models, the change is a simple matter and the finely structured paper filter is located in the so-called filter box. The filter box is usually located on the engine or at least near it. The component is easily accessible, even if the attachment and exact position often vary.

The cover can be opened with a few screws or with a click lock and the air filter is removed. When changing, it is important that no dirt gets into the open intake manifold. For this reason, the change should be carried out relatively quickly.

At a workshop, the air filter as a material costs between 40 and 130 dollars. If special air filters are required, the material price is always somewhat higher. Usually about 10 to 60 dollars are due for removal and installation. These costs depend on how the air filter was accommodated. Usually the change in the workshop takes only about 10 minutes and therefore this repair is usually comparatively cheap.

If the air filter itself is changed, then a screwdriver and a rag are usually sufficient if the area is relatively dirty. First, the hood is opened and secured. In the case of the air filter box, the fasteners are opened and if the air filter mat has been removed from the housing, the housing is cleaned with the rag. A new air filter mat is inserted into the housing and the cover is closed. In the end, the hood is closed and the process is done.

Changing the air filter: costs of repair in the workshop

When changing the air filter, the amount of work is usually low. The air filters are almost always easily accessible and no other components have to be removed from the engine. The replacement of the filter is done in about 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the model. After the waiting time is small, therefore, can be waited in the workshop. Immediately afterwards, the vehicle owners can drive on again without any worries.

Depending on the labor and depending on the cost of the air filter insert, the cost can be from about forty dollars, depending on the vehicle model. Of course, this largely depends on the type of car and the workshop. For example, while a Golf V Variant is around 50 dollars, an Opel Astra H Caravan costs around 40 euros. A Ford First Lim. or the Audi A4 Avant also cost about 60 dollars. The BMW Series 3 Touring costs about from 120 dollars and a Mercedes-Benz BM 207 E-Class Coupe, for example, is about 80 dollars.

What is a V-belt?

Known in common parlance as a V-belt, today’s cars, however, generally use V-ribbed belts, due in no small part to its optimized shape, because while a V-belt usually has a smooth surface, a V-ribbed belt has ribs running lengthwise that interlock with the ribs of the pulley.

Why does a V-belt squeal and what are the various causes?

Before we begin to answer the question of why a V-belt squeaks, it should be said at this point that a squeaking V-belt can always have several causes, and of course it always depends on the individual case. However, it is also a fact that there is always a cause for the concise squealing, which should be followed up very promptly if possible, so that no consequential damage is caused by a defective V-belt on the car! In most cases, the concise noise always occurs when there is insufficient frictional connection between the belt and the pulley.

In this case, the reason is often the lack of belt tension, which can mean that the belt has either expanded, or the tensioning device of the pulley is not working properly. But also a grease film or moisture can reduce the adhesion of a V-ribbed belt. If the belt slips as a result of this, the typical squealing can also occur here! If the V-belt whistles when starting or in a generally damp and cold climate, for example in autumn or winter, you can be pretty sure that the mixture of cold and damp is causing the squealing. In this case, the noise usually stops as soon as the engine warms up. However, the squealing does not necessarily have to be due to the V-ribbed belt, because surrounding components such as the vibration dampers, idler pulleys or the tensioning pulleys can also be responsible for the squealing noise!

What can be done about a squeaking V-belt?

It is not important what you can do about it, but first of all that you find the cause of the squeaking in the first place. To do this, the ribbed belt should first be looked at when it is at a standstill and checked for any material fatigue. If the belt is too flexible or even porous, this can be the first sign of the fault. The same applies if wet or oily residues are discovered on the ribbed belt! When inspecting the belt, however, a closer look should also be taken at the sides, because if the ribbed belt rubs against the side of the ribbed pulley, this can also be the cause of the squealing.

Another indication of a defect is if unusual abrasion can be detected. If the visual inspection at standstill does not reveal any of these indications, a visual inspection during operation and with the engine running may provide more information. If there is an odor of warm rubber or if abrasion can be detected, you are close to the cause. In addition, you should be able to touch the bearings and pulleys after running the V-ribbed belt (of course, only test out of service). If they are noticeably hot shortly after operation, the cause may be excessive friction.

What are sprays good for?

If a V-belt squeaks, V-belt spray will only help to a limited extent, because once a ribbed belt or surrounding components are defective, worn or too loose, even a V-belt spray can only partially eliminate the squeaking, but not the defects themselves! However, the sprays are not completely wrong, because they are a good means to maintain the material and keep the rubber supple. If the squeaking is weather related, a V-belt spray can be a good way to counteract that as well! The same applies if the V-belt still squeaks after a change. However, if the spray brings no or only a short-term effect, the trip to the workshop should not be too long in coming!

Should squeaking be taken seriously?

If a V-belt squeals for a longer period of time, the cause should be investigated immediately, since a defective or, in the worst case, broken V-belt can cause consequential damage and thus higher repair costs.

What does a V-belt replacement cost?

Normally, the material costs for a belt change amount to between 25 and 50 dollars. Unfortunately, it is often the change itself that costs a lot of money due to the effort involved! Depending on the type of vehicle, you have to budget an additional 150 to 200 dollars for the installation. Due to the high amount of work and the low material costs, it is therefore often worthwhile to have the V-belt changed as a precaution whenever repairs are carried out that require the V-ribbed belt to be removed anyway!