What is a V-belt?

Known in common parlance as a V-belt, today’s cars, however, generally use V-ribbed belts, due in no small part to its optimized shape, because while a V-belt usually has a smooth surface, a V-ribbed belt has ribs running lengthwise that interlock with the ribs of the pulley.

Why does a V-belt squeal and what are the various causes?

Before we begin to answer the question of why a V-belt squeaks, it should be said at this point that a squeaking V-belt can always have several causes, and of course it always depends on the individual case. However, it is also a fact that there is always a cause for the concise squealing, which should be followed up very promptly if possible, so that no consequential damage is caused by a defective V-belt on the car! In most cases, the concise noise always occurs when there is insufficient frictional connection between the belt and the pulley.

In this case, the reason is often the lack of belt tension, which can mean that the belt has either expanded, or the tensioning device of the pulley is not working properly. But also a grease film or moisture can reduce the adhesion of a V-ribbed belt. If the belt slips as a result of this, the typical squealing can also occur here! If the V-belt whistles when starting or in a generally damp and cold climate, for example in autumn or winter, you can be pretty sure that the mixture of cold and damp is causing the squealing. In this case, the noise usually stops as soon as the engine warms up. However, the squealing does not necessarily have to be due to the V-ribbed belt, because surrounding components such as the vibration dampers, idler pulleys or the tensioning pulleys can also be responsible for the squealing noise!

What can be done about a squeaking V-belt?

It is not important what you can do about it, but first of all that you find the cause of the squeaking in the first place. To do this, the ribbed belt should first be looked at when it is at a standstill and checked for any material fatigue. If the belt is too flexible or even porous, this can be the first sign of the fault. The same applies if wet or oily residues are discovered on the ribbed belt! When inspecting the belt, however, a closer look should also be taken at the sides, because if the ribbed belt rubs against the side of the ribbed pulley, this can also be the cause of the squealing.

Another indication of a defect is if unusual abrasion can be detected. If the visual inspection at standstill does not reveal any of these indications, a visual inspection during operation and with the engine running may provide more information. If there is an odor of warm rubber or if abrasion can be detected, you are close to the cause. In addition, you should be able to touch the bearings and pulleys after running the V-ribbed belt (of course, only test out of service). If they are noticeably hot shortly after operation, the cause may be excessive friction.

What are sprays good for?

If a V-belt squeaks, V-belt spray will only help to a limited extent, because once a ribbed belt or surrounding components are defective, worn or too loose, even a V-belt spray can only partially eliminate the squeaking, but not the defects themselves! However, the sprays are not completely wrong, because they are a good means to maintain the material and keep the rubber supple. If the squeaking is weather related, a V-belt spray can be a good way to counteract that as well! The same applies if the V-belt still squeaks after a change. However, if the spray brings no or only a short-term effect, the trip to the workshop should not be too long in coming!

Should squeaking be taken seriously?

If a V-belt squeals for a longer period of time, the cause should be investigated immediately, since a defective or, in the worst case, broken V-belt can cause consequential damage and thus higher repair costs.

What does a V-belt replacement cost?

Normally, the material costs for a belt change amount to between 25 and 50 dollars. Unfortunately, it is often the change itself that costs a lot of money due to the effort involved! Depending on the type of vehicle, you have to budget an additional 150 to 200 dollars for the installation. Due to the high amount of work and the low material costs, it is therefore often worthwhile to have the V-belt changed as a precaution whenever repairs are carried out that require the V-ribbed belt to be removed anyway!

As soon as the cold season sets in, the negative influences on a motor vehicle increase. Above all, salt and grit damage the bodywork, but frost also takes its toll on the car. In addition, there is an increased risk of accidents, which is why many drivers decide to buy a winter car. However, there are some aspects to consider, especially when it comes to the choice of vehicle, but also its registration.

Buying a winter car offers advantages but also disadvantages

Often owners choose older and used vehicles when they decide to buy a winter car. If an accident or minor damage happens, it has much less effect than with a nicely maintained summer car. But when choosing, interested parties should carefully consider whether a winter car with all-wheel drive might be worthwhile. Especially those who often have to cope with inclines are on the safe side with this drive. On the other hand, anyone who buys a winter car will have to reckon with significantly poorer safety conditions. Although this saves the buyer money immediately upon purchase, he will have to dig deeper into his pocket later for taxes, possible insurance premiums and new equipment such as winter tires. Very favorable bargains can often be found at the car recycling around the corner.

What makes the optimal winter car

If someone wants to buy a winter car, it is important to pay attention to the same aspects as for the general purchase of a used car. Ideally, the choice should go to a winter car with all-wheel drive or at least front-wheel drive. Small cars are also well suited for this time of year, as their size and maneuverability make them easy to drive on winter roads. Also, features such as ABS and a drive by means of gasoline complete the perfect car choice for the second car in the cold season.

Popular brands as winter cars

The market of models that drivers want to sell as a winter car is large. And yet, most of them rely on proven brands such as Audi and Opel. The Audi 80 and Audi 100 in particular are popular models, while the Opel Astra or Corsa are at the top of the ranking list. If you want a winter car with all-wheel drive, many Opel models are the right choice. The Fiat Panda also has this drive and has made a name for itself as a long-term purchase for winter cars. In addition, the Kia Sportage and the Nissan X-Trail are popular second cars for the cold season.

Register correctly

It is obvious that a car purchased as a winter car must be legally registered in accordance with Department of Transport. 1. For this purpose, it must also have a valid license plate; if this is missing, penalties of 60 dollars may be imposed. Of course, it makes no sense to leave the vehicle registered throughout the year. This means that the owner will soon have the option of selling his winter car again. Much better are either seasonal license plates or interchangeable license plates. While the former simply involves registering for a specific period, the latter allows two cars to alternate on the roads. It is slightly more expensive than the seasonal license plate, which helps save on vehicle tax and insurance. In this case, you only have to pay for the period actually registered and driven, which is between two and eleven months.

The rights of claims settlement in the event of an accident that was not the fault of the victim are clearly regulated. Anyone who is involved in an accident through no fault of their own is entitled to a number of rights as the injured party. Which claims the injured party can assert is only determined once the question of fault has been clearly established. This is what traffic law enforcement officers are needed for.

The first steps after an accident

No matter how severe and serious the accident per se may be, the first action must always be to call the police. The traffic police will record the accident. If there is a legal dispute later, this report is of great importance for the innocent injured party. Only with the confirmation of the police, whereby the course of events of the accident is exactly and in detail recorded, the injured party has the necessary evidence to be able to claim his rights.

What mistakes should be avoided in the case of accidents that are not one’s fault – what should be considered?

An accident is an unpleasant and at the same time difficult matter, which is connected with different obligations and rights. A gross mistake is to try to handle the claims process yourself. Taking photos, making an accident sketch, contacting the other party’s accident company, etc., all these steps of taking the initiative do not lead to the desired success when things get tough in court.

At the scene of the accident, there is one thing to remember: Stay calm! What has happened cannot be undone. Attacking the other party in the accident verbally or in any other way makes little sense, because aggressive behavior benefits no one. It is much more important to secure the accident site immediately and to keep an overview. In the case of minor accident damage, so-called settlement protocols are possible. However, these should only be signed by both sides if no other claims want to be asserted. If significant damage has occurred in the accident, the claim of the injured party who is not at fault must be reported to the opposing obligation as soon as possible. If the injured party waits too long to report the damage, it will become increasingly difficult for him to prove the actual damage and thus to assert all his claims.

Why is it important to hire an independent motor vehicle appraiser?

An independent motor vehicle appraiser objectively and thus quite impartially records the damages incurred in the accident. He takes a close look at the damage and draws up an accident report based on his analyses. This documents all the defects that can be traced back to the accident, and he also estimates the cost of repair, if this is possible.

After an accident for which the vehicle was not at fault, the expert opinion of an independent motor vehicle assessor is important because his damage report goes far beyond the scope of a cost estimate prepared by a motor vehicle repair shop. If repair is impossible, the independent motor vehicle appraiser can determine the replacement value or the current value of the vehicle. In this way, an appraisal covers possible additional and subsequent costs that are not included in an ordinary estimate.

How to find an independent appraiser?

Unfortunately, it is not so easy to find the right independent appraiser. Objectivity and qualification are sometimes thin on the ground when it comes to appraisers.

What does an independent expert opinion cost?

The more severely the vehicle was damaged, the higher the expert’s fee. The more serious the damage to the car, the longer the appraiser will need. The costs are calculated on the basis of corresponding tables. The fixed amounts that are charged for certain services are based on these tables. Depending on the damage incurred, the independent expert opinion may cost a lot or less. If the amount of damage including GST is 2,000 dollars, the basic fee of the expert ranges from 265 to 355 dollars. If the amount of damage is around 20,000 dollars, then the expert receives a fee of between 940 and 1,355 dollars.

However, in the case of accidents without fault, the fee is settled by most independent experts with the opposing insurance company, so that the injured party does not incur any costs for this. With the following independent experts, the accident appraisal is free of charge in the case of accidents without fault.

What is an EGR valve?

The abbreviation EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation. The EGR valve is a very important component of this device, which serves to reduce the temperature of the exhaust gases produced during the combustion of fuel in the engine and the release of nitrogen oxides into the environment. During exhaust gas recirculation, a portion of the exhaust gases produced returns to the intake side of the engine via a pipe and the valve, where it re-enters the engine’s combustion chamber along with the fresh gases. The recirculation of the exhaust gases, which are low in oxygen and contain carbon dioxide, displaces fresh air in the intake manifold, which reduces the oxygen content of the gases being recirculated. The recirculated exhaust gases do not participate in the combustion process, but must nevertheless be reheated, i.e. they absorb heat energy, which causes the overall combustion temperature to drop.

The task of the EGR valve

Exhaust gas recirculation does not take place constantly, but only in the partial load range when the engine is running particularly lean. After a cold start, during the warm-up phase or when the engine is running at full load, exhaust gas recirculation makes little sense. The EGR valve is needed to control exhaust gas recirculation. It opens and closes the connection between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. The valve is located on the engine, usually near the exhaust manifold. By means of control electronics, it is possible to activate exhaust gas recirculation only under certain load conditions and engine temperatures and to deactivate it in driving situations when its use makes little sense.

When a defect occurs in the exhaust gas recirculation system

If the EGR valve is defective, there will be a significant deterioration in exhaust gas values as well as a deterioration in driving behavior. Idling problems, jerking or loss of power may occur. If necessary, the engine control unit may also go into emergency mode. If the valve is defective, problems may arise during the emissions test. However, in most cases the driver will visit a workshop before this happens, because the driving behavior deteriorates significantly due to poor throttle response and a sometimes severe loss of power.

Causes of a defective EGR valve

The most common cause is a blockage of the EGR valve, caused by contamination due to soot that occurs during combustion of the fuel-air mixture. Over time, the exhaust gases leave heavy traces inside the valve, which can cause it to stick. Sooting of the EGR valve is particularly common in diesel engines. Defects or problems can also be caused by damaged cable connections or seals, as well as leaking connecting lines and hoses. Depending on the position in which the EGR valve remains due to the soiling, various fault symptoms can occur. For example, if it remains open all the time, the engine draws in a high proportion of exhaust gas, while the amount of fresh air drawn in decreases. The electronic control unit for engine management then lowers the amount of fuel injected, which in turn reduces engine performance. Some vehicles indicate the defect by lighting up the engine control light.

Cleaning and replacing the EGR valve

In principle, it is possible to clean the valve. However, this should at best be done as a preventive measure. In the event of a defect, cleaning is no longer of any use and the valve must be replaced, as must the seals located on the valve. Improper cleaning can also cause further damage to the exhaust gas recirculation system. The cost of replacement depends on the type of vehicle. In principle, the replacement can also be carried out yourself. However, it is advisable to visit a specialist workshop. The workshop can check the EGR valve and other parts of the engine control system and determine whether any possible impairment when driving is actually attributable to the component.

Sooner or later, every car owner is confronted with the fate that their car no longer functions satisfactorily. Defects accumulate, increasingly frequent defects cost money and even the cost of wearing parts eventually becomes too high. With increasing age, every car sooner or later becomes “ready for the scrap heap”. If, on the other hand, you have an accident, your car can become an economic total loss within seconds. The only solution? Get rid of the car!

Simply leaving the unroadworthy vehicle on the side of the road is not possible without legal consequences. Instead, such cars must be professionally dismantled, disposed of and finally deregistered in Australia. But instead of paying money to get rid of your scrap car, you can simply get some. There are several options for this.

Private sale vs. recycler

One thing is certain: the old car has to go. For the options you have, the condition of the car plays a big role. If your car is old, but still roadworthy and also has a valid  sticker, it is comparatively easy to look for a private buyer. An online advertisement offers a solid platform for this, with which you can easily reach potential buyers, as long as the advertisement is attractively designed. It is not only lovers of old, aging cars who like to go in search of bargains.

Car hobbyists are also often on the lookout for them, in order to cannibalize the vehicles and reuse the parts for their own purposes. How much you get for the car depends entirely on your negotiating skills. Some interested parties offer money for the entire car, while others are only interested in individual parts. Depending on how you present the car in the ad or how you come to an agreement, the selling price can be different high or low. Here, of course, the condition and quality of the body, equipment and aggregates play a significant role.

If your car is unroadworthy and without a sticker, a private sale can be problematic. Getting an attractive sum for a scrap car is usually unlikely. In principle, such a scrap car is taken directly to the recycler. But be careful: not every recycler will let you scrap your car for free. Often there is a fee of 100 euros or more. In addition, the unroadworthy car must be transported to the recycler at your own expense. So the only profit you can make here is if you cannibalize the vehicle yourself beforehand and sell the valuable parts. Is there perhaps a simpler solution how to make your scrap car easy and uncomplicated money?

Purchase enterprises

Beside the private sales and the classical auto utilization purchase enterprises offer such as WA Auto Parts an uncomplicated alternative, how one gets rid of problem-free its scrap ripe vehicle. Before the sales two-stage evaluation takes place, in order to determine the remaining value of the vehicle. This happens completely uncomplicated, because WA Auto Parts tells you the answer to: What is my car still worth? The first stage is carried out by means of an online price calculator, into which the most important vehicle data such as make, model and the year of first registration are entered. Within seconds, you get an initial estimate based on current market data.

The second step is to book a personal appointment for an appraisal at one of over 100 branches throughout Australia, where the vehicle is closely examined by automotive experts. After the appraisal, the customer is presented with a purchase offer, which he can accept if he is interested. Thus, one has sold his scrap car, and this is even possible within just 24 hours. With this purchase company, one has the advantage that the condition of the vehicle does not matter. Thus, even cars that have been declared a total loss can be presented without any problems. If the car is immobile, they will even help organize a transport.

The value of the car matters

Whether you sell your scrap car privately, through a purchasing company or dismantled into individual parts is entirely up to you. If it has to be done quickly and you simply want to dispose of your car, you are well served by a vehicle recycling company. However, make sure it’s a certified business to avoid any nasty surprises. You can find a car recycling company near you on our car recycler overview.

In addition to the damage present, each scrap car has different characteristics that are important for pricing. In addition to make and model, equipment and accessories also determine the selling price. Therefore, it is important to determine the car value before any sale. Reputable purchasing companies usually offer this service free of charge. Only then will you know the exact value of your vehicle and be able to turn your scrap car into cash.

What is a shock absorber on a car?

The shock absorber, also called vibration damper, absorbs shocks and vibrations transmitted from the road surface to the vehicle. The structure of a shock absorber is quickly explained. It consists of a cylinder and a piston. Inside the cylinder is gas or oil. By moving up and down, the gas or oil is forced through fine openings or sucked back again. This causes the vibrations to lose intensity.

When does the vibration damper need to be replaced?

The durability of a shock absorber depends on several factors. Bad roads with many potholes, frequent driving on dirt or forest roads or driving too fast in curves will cause a shock absorber to become defective more quickly than would be the case under normal conditions.

The shock absorber is a wearing part and should be checked approximately every 80,000 to 100,000 kilometers.

Shock absorber wear is gradual and one quickly becomes accustomed to a shock absorber that no longer functions properly. However, there are simple ways to determine if a shock absorber is defective. Unevenly worn tires, high tire wear, a vibrating steering wheel or even rumbling noises can be signs. An unmistakable sign of a defective shock absorber is leaking oil.
Shock absorber replacement is often difficult. Usually the tire and the brake caliper have to be removed; sometimes also the tie rod, which is part of the steering system. Work on brakes or steering should only be carried out by specialist workshops.

At least the front shock absorbers are usually assembled with the spring to form a single unit: The spring strut. To separate the shock absorber from the spring, the complete strut must be removed and the spring tensioned with a special tool so that the shock absorber can be removed. Tensioning the spring releases enormous forces, which many a mechanic has paid for with broken bones. It is therefore essential to consult a specialist workshop. If a shock absorber is not connected to a spring, it can easily be removed by anyone with technical experience.

What does a shock absorber replacement cost?

The cost of a shock absorber replacement varies, of course, and depends on the type of vehicle. Shock absorbers for an SUV or a sports car are significantly more expensive than shock absorbers for a mid-size car and can sometimes reach a 4-digit amount. A normal shock absorber costs between 50 and 150 euros. However, you should bear in mind that it makes sense to change the shock absorbers in pairs. That means on one axle right and left.

Of course, one must not forget the workshop costs. Here, too, there are big differences and a price comparison is always worthwhile. Some workshops offer all-inclusive prices and thus make the costs for a shock absorber change clear.

On average, the work per axle will cost around 150 to 200 euros. If we calculate the maximum in each case, you will have to pay about 500 euros per axle for a shock absorber replacement. The minimum is only about 250 euros.

However, your safety and that of others should be worth it.

What is a turbocharger?

The turbocharger is also known as the exhaust gas turbocharger or ATL for short. This is an optional assembly within an internal combustion engine that serves to increase the power and efficiency of the engine. The working principle of the turbocharger is that by using the kinetic energy of the engine exhaust gases, more outside air is introduced into the combustion chamber more quickly.

Reasons for a whistling turbocharger

There are many reasons why a turbocharger whistles. First of all, it is reassuring for car drivers that the whistling of the turbocharger almost never has complete wear as a trigger. One reason may be that a lack of oil supply is against. Basically, the connecting shafts between the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel are permanently lubricated. Poor oil or contamination as well as fuel in the oil can tear the oil film and cause the whistling.

Hot shutdown of a turbocharged engine after long and intensive operation can also cause the whistling of the turbo blade due to the immediate interruption of cooling. Burning oil in the engine can also be problematic for the turbo. The resulting oil carbon can then settle on the turbine. Problems with the exhaust system also often lead to problems with the turbo, which is particularly common in diesel engines with particulate filters. This is particularly common when a vehicle is driven predominantly in city traffic, as the filter is then not sufficiently burned free.

Is a turbocharger always defective when it whistles?

In principle, it is not a sign that the turbo is already defective if the turbocharger makes whistling noises. If, for example, the vehicle has been driven at high revs for a long time, the turbocharger may well whistle if the vehicle is switched off immediately. The turbo is therefore by no means immediately defective. However, care should be taken to ensure that this does not happen more frequently so that the turbocharger is not permanently damaged. Foreign bodies in particular can cause the turbocharger to whistle. Under certain circumstances, this also means that it can suffer damage. If these foreign bodies get into the intake tract, damage to the turbo can quickly occur.

Should a whistling turbo be taken to the workshop?

In any case, it makes sense to visit the workshop if the turbocharger whistles. Since laypersons are often unable to determine the causes, it is advisable to seek professional help here so that the turbocharger is not permanently damaged by unidentified influences alone.

The summer is coming and Western Australian invites you to drive again. Now that the roads are passable again and the rims are not dirty after every short kilometer drive, it is time to get your wheel covers out of the garage again. Freshly cleaned you notice it immediately when you go to the car in the morning and see the shiny wheels: Yes, spring is here again. Razor covers are mounted quickly in a few steps and there is relatively little to consider. When buying wheel covers is now actually. the comparison and purchase on the Internet. Within a short time your car shines again in the gloss and the aluminum rims are protected.

Step by step guide:

1  – First:

The very first thing to do is to clean your rim thoroughly and inspect it. If somewhere on the rim are still, when mounting the hubcap, annoying, easy to remove parts, then please remove them. If you are not sure whether part XY must be removed from your rim, the dealer you trust can certainly answer all your questions about mounting wheel covers.

2 – Secondly:

Bring the steel clamping ring over the valve recess.

3 – Third:

The third step in mounting wheel covers is the most important. You have to be careful that the hubcap doesn’t slip out with the retaining claws. The retaining claws actually only have to fit into the recesses provided for this purpose. Since this sounds easier than it is, you should rather get a 3rd hand to help you. With a 2nd helper, the assembly is guaranteed to be done in no more than 3 minutes.

4 – Fourth:

Once again walk along the edge with your hand and feel whether each retaining claw sits well. And your wheel cover is already securely attached.

If a hub cap does not fit…

Hubcaps are almost universally compatible. As a rule, it should not be a problem to take the wheel covers from one car to another. Almost all problems that occur when mounting wheel covers, can be solved quickly with the help of the clamping ring. The clamping ring is located on the inside of the hub cap and is usually a thin steel ring. The clamping ring should be adjusted so that the hubcap is firmly connected to the tire. The adjustment can be made simply by moving and thus enlarging the steel ring.

Done in a few minutes

Hubcaps are quickly attached and provide excellent protection for the rim from scratches, small stones and light damage. Since you are universally usable and there is a large selection, everyone can find a suitable hubcap for himself. They visually enhance your car and remind each of us of a beautiful spring. The sun is shining, so get out the hubcaps and hit the road.

The auto clutch is an indispensable link between the engine and transmission. Without this important component, you would neither be able to start, nor to engage the various gears. But unfortunately, the clutch is one of the car parts that, depending on the driving style, more or less quickly show clutch damage due to wear. Therefore, the question arises for every driver at some point whether the clutch is defective and must be replaced.

Signs of clutch damage, how can they be recognized?

There are certain characteristics by which you can recognize whether a change of the clutch is imminent. These include:

• Clutch slips, which means that the engine power does not increase in accordance with the indicated engine speed.
• Gear engagement is sluggish
• Gears slip out
• When engaging the gears, loud noises occur in the transmission unit
• Rough start-up when the clutch is released

TIP: Even though today’s modern clutches last around 60,000 to 120,000 kilometers, you should have their functionality checked regularly at a workshop before clutch damage occurs. An experienced automotive technician can detect the signs of clutch damage with just a short test drive.

Can clutch damage be repaired by the customer?

If the clutch is defective, replacement is unavoidable. To be able to change the clutch yourself, you would have to place the vehicle on a lifting platform and remove the transmission. Only then is it possible to install the new clutch. However, special tools are required for this. In addition, important test and torque values must be observed during installation. Therefore, if the clutch is defective, both the inspection and the repair should be carried out by a recognized automotive workshop.

What does a clutch replacement cost?

The costs for the repair of the clutch damage commissioned, the costs incurred for this are mainly composed of two factors:

1. labor

Before the new clutch can be installed, the transmission must be removed. This usually takes a car mechanic no more than two to four hours. The situation is different if the clutch is defective on an all-wheel-drive vehicle. In this case, the working time increases to around six to eight hours, as the clutch release bearing and slave cylinder are usually also replaced when the clutch is changed.

2. material costs

The cost of materials is difficult to calculate as a lump sum. If original parts of certain car brands are used, the costs are certainly higher than if products of other manufacturers are used. For a normal clutch, you can expect material costs of up to 400 euros, so that the cost of repairing a damaged clutch, with a workload of four hours, is about 1,200 euros. However, this figure only serves as an approximate guide.

TIP: The signs of clutch damage described above are present in your car and you are looking for a workshop? Then you should definitely make a price comparison beforehand. In this regard, various portals offer free comparison calculators with which the costs of a clutch repair can be calculated without obligation.

Conclusion

If you drive carefully, you can significantly increase the service life of a clutch. For example, you should not stand on the clutch pedal unnecessarily, but rather shift into neutral more often. It also helps if you start off quickly and don’t let the clutch drag for long.

Owning a car doesn’t just mean independence, freedom and driving pleasure. A car also brings with it one or two obligations. In addition to the insurance and motor vehicle taxes that you have to pay, a vehicle also needs some care. That starts with a thorough car wash and ends with a timing belt replacement. But the thing that car owners like to forget to have done and wonder afterwards why the car sounds funny and the engine nails so strangely, although you  don’t drive a diesel at all, is the oil change.

An oil change is elementary for driving a vehicle. The operating fluids are used to keep the vehicle running properly. During an oil change, the engine oil is drained out through an oil drain plug. Further, the oil filter is removed and a new one is fitted. After draining the oil and attaching the new oil filter, the new engine oil is also filled in.

Many people ask the question: How much does an oil change cost? The price differs from car to car. It depends on how much cubic capacity the engine has or how many cylinders. It also depends on whether you drive on gasoline or diesel. This also determines the type of oil. For example, there are 10W40, 5W30 and so on. Further it depends also on the mark of the oil. So whether you use oil from Castrol, Liqui Moly or no-name products.
Furthermore, the price of an oil change depends on the workshop where it is done. Workshops often charge a considerable premium for the oil itself.

On the Internet, you can also find sites that allow you to compare prices for oil changes at workshops in your region. In Perth, for example, you pay between AUD 150.00 and AUD 280.00 for an oil change including oil filter for a VW Golf 1.4. In this case, independent workshops are clearly cheaper than authorized workshops.

Oil Change Is Easy

With skill, you can also change the oil yourself. In any case, a lifting platform or ramp is advantageous. It is important to have a suitable container for the old oil. This must be large enough and suitable in the condition to catch the used oil. Since this is very harmful to the environment, it is not allowed to simply let the oil seep into the ground. First, open the oil drain plug. This is usually located at the lowest point of the oil pan.

After all the oil has drained out, you turn off the oil filter with a so-called oil filter wrench. This is usually very difficult. This is also full of old engine oil. Afterwards one turns the new oil filter again purely. Make sure that it is really straight. Then screw the oil drain plug back in. Then fill up with fresh oil from above. The rule of thumb for the amount of oil is about 1 liter per cylinder. So for a 4-cylinder vehicle this would be about 4 liters of oil. The exact quantity can also be found in the vehicle manual. When filling up the oil, always pull the dipstick to check.

It doesn’t matter whether you change the oil yourself or have it done in a workshop. It is important that the intervals (15,000 kilometers or after 1 year) for the change are observed.